DIVERSIONS

Getting around Metro Manila can prove an adventure in itself. The most famous mode of local transport is the Jeepney, traditionally a brightly decorated minibus converted from a U.S. Army Jeep. Controversially, they are being phased out, replaced with modern minibuses. Jeepneys drive fixed routes and only depart the terminus when they’re full. More flexible are the motorized tricycles, which can also dodge the notorious traffic jams. Passengers sit in a sidecar (be on guard for thieves on foot attempting to snatch any valuables you have with you).

The logical starting point for sightseeing is Old Manila, the original walled Spanish city (officially known as Intramuros — “inside the walls”). Though almost entirely destroyed in World War II, many of the district’s old buildings have been rebuilt, including Manila Cathedral, the Governor’s Palace and parts of Fort Santiago.

Bambike Ecotours runs guided group tours of Intramuros on bamboo bicycles. The Manila America Cemetery, open daily 9 a.m.–5 p.m., doesn’t charge admission, but you will need to provide a valid photo ID. The cemetery’s beautifully designed visitor center houses an informative museum.